How many brackets do I need?
The number of brackets needed is generally based on the diameter of the rod and the length of the rod. Every rod may need an additional bracket(s) in the middle if a rod is spliced, exceeds a maximum suggested span, or your drapery is particularly heavy. Since no single section of rod can exceed 105", you will always need a middle bracket on rods over 105".
Since rods increase in rigidity as they increase in diameter, we have these suggested guidelines. The distance between two adjacent brackets is called a "span".
1/2" diameter rod : max suggested span is ~70"
3/4" diameter rod : max suggested span is ~80"
1" diameter rod : max suggested span is ~90"
1 1/4" diameter and larger can span up to the full unspliced length (105") with no sag.
If using heavy drapery, consider deducting 5" to 10" from a rod diameter's maximum suggested span.
Here are some examples:
A rod @ 95" with no middle brackets would have a span of 95".
A rod @ 140" with one middle bracket would have 2 spans of 70".
A rod @ 240" with two middle brackets would have 3 spans of 80".
If a rod length exceeds its maximum suggested span of 105", we will by default splice the rod into the minumum number of equal lengths. Contact us if you need custom spliced lengths.
Corner and Bay window curtain rods will usually need a bracket near each corner. (Mounted on whichever wall you prefer.)
We intentionally do not include screws or anchors for a very important reason: there are different types you may need and you will want to choose the appropriate anchor based on your wall type to ensure a safe and strong mount. See our resource page Mounting Screws for additional information.
Will I Need to Slide Drapery Past a Bracket?
Now that you know how many brackets you'll need and their approximate placements, you can determine whether or not you'll need to slide any of the drapery past a bracket.
Here are some scenarios:
If you have NO middle bracket, then you'll never need to slide past a bracket. You're done!
If you have ONE middle bracket, then you'd only be sliding past it if doing a One-Way Draw. A One-Way Draw is when you open ALL the fabric to either the far left or far right. If you are instead doing a normal Left-Right Draw, then you will not be sliding past the middle bracket. You're done!
If you have TWO OR MORE middle brackets, then you will probably need to slide past a bracket unless you plan to leave some panels in the middle section of the rod at all times. If you are instead doing a normal Left-Right Draw, then you will be sliding past a bracket.
Remember that only C-Rings can slide past a Bypass bracket and we always recommend pairing our C-Rings with our Bypass brackets.
Bracket Types:
Standard Single & Center Single:
These brackets are used for a single rod setup. When ordering, select the "rod size to fit" as the diameter of the rod these brackets will support. Select the clearance as the desired distance between the wall and the back of the rod (3" is most common).
Standard brackets typically provide more support and hide better behind end drapery panels, whereas Center brackets allow the rod to be mounted closer (lower) to the window trim and tend to hide better behind the rod due to their horizontal backplate.
Slim Center brackets are not recommended for projections over 3", unless mounting onto something very hard like concrete, brick or hard wood. If you need a projection longer than 3" and are mounting onto a soft surface such as drywall, then it is best to use one of our other brackets.
Standard Double & Center Double:
Double brackets are used for double rod setups. Normally, the back rod is a smaller diameter than the front rod since it tends to holds less weight (e.g. sheer). A smaller diameter in the back also helps to keep the overall clearance down. A common clearance to the back rod is 2 1/2". We recommend at least 1 1/2" spacing in between rods, for example:
Cup 1: 3/4" rod, 2 1/2" clearance
Cup 2: 1 1/4" rod, 4 3/4" clearance
Socket:
Socket brackets are used for rods that will be mounted between two surfaces facing one another, such as inside the frame of a recessed window or in the case of a shower curtain rod. This type of installation is called a Wall-to-Wall Mount, or Inside Mount.
Please Note: The socket backplates are 3/8" thick. If using a socket on both ends of a straight rod, be sure to subtract 7/8" from the overall length of the rod to allow room for the brackets themselves and ease of installation.
If you are using a socket on only one end of the rod, then simply subtract 3/8" from the length of the rod. A general rule is to err on making your rod a bit too short versus too long, so as to not inhibit installation. Also see measuring help for your rod type (straight, corner, bay) if using socket brackets.
Post:
Post brackets are used for curtain rods with returns on the ends. The clearance of the post bracket should be the same as the clearance of the rod returns. Ex: If you are ordering a 1" diameter rod with returns having a 3 1/2" clearance, your specifications for your two Post brackets would be: Rod size to fit = 1", Clearance = 3 1/2". For more info, read about rods with returns.
Loop:
Loop brackets are used for single rods and can be mounted on the wall or ceiling. They can also be made with a round backplate (for ceiling mounts only). Please contact us if you'd prefer this configuration.
Their high strength also makes them a great option for longer clearances.
Simple Ceiling:
These are brackets are used for single rod setups. Be sure that the clearance you are specifying is at least 1/2" larger than the diameter of the rod, otherwise you will not be able to insert the rod into the cup from the front of the bracket. (The opening would be too small and you'd have to slide the rod in from the side.)
Also, please note that there is an absolute minimum clearance of 1 1/2", regardless of rod size.
M1:
M1 brackets are high strength and great for long projections. They can be used for wall or ceiling mounts and are currently for use with round rods only.
M1 brackets are available for single and double rod setups.
M2:
M2 brackets are high strength and great for long projections. They are currently for use with round rods only.
M2 brackets are available for single and double rod setups.
The following are suggestions on cup style:
A round cup is used for round rods. A square cup is used for square and hammered rods.
Standard style is used in most cases. Saddle style may be used for getting extra height above the bracket. (Such as when crown molding prevents you from simply mounting the bracket higher on the wall.)
Bracket dimensions:
NOTE: The following are non-critical dimensions, and may change from time to time as we work to improve our products. If your design or installation has a specific requirement, please contact us to confirm the details.
All mounting holes are 1/4" in diameter. #8 x 2" wood screws are included. High strength Snaptoggle Anchors are available for purchase.
Standard, Center, and Simple Ceiling brackets are made from 3/16" x 3/4" flat bar.
The height of the backplate on Standard Single and Standard Double brackets (with non-Saddle cups) depends on the rod size:
1/2", 3/4" rod = 3" back height
1", 1 1/4" rod = 3 1/2" back height
1 1/2", 2" rod = 4" back height
The backplate on Center brackets is 3" wide x 1 1/2" tall.
The backplate on Slim Center brackets is 3 1/2" wide x 3/4" tall.
Post brackets are 3" - 4" tall (following rules above), and are as wide as the diameter of the rod.
Sockets are always a 1/4" larger in diameter than the rod size.
Loop brackets have a backplate measuring 1" wide, and 2 1/2" - 3 1/2" tall depending on rod size. The cup and arm portion are 1/2" wide.
M1 brackets have a backplate measuring 1" wide, and 2 1/2" - 3 1/2" tall depending on rod size. The arm is 3/16" thick.
Standard Bypass brackets and Standard Single/Double brackets with Saddle cups have a backplate 3/4" wide x 3" tall.
Will My Rod Slide in the Brackets?
If using Highland Forge rods, brackets, and rings, it is very unlikely that your rod will shift in the bracket cups. Not only are our rods heavier than most on the market, our powder-coated finishes create a very smooth sliding surface. If any sliding does occur, a simple fix is to put a thin piece of duct tape in the inside of the bracket cup. It may sound crude, but it works very well by creating friction and is not visible.
If you are using our rods and brackets with another manufacturer’s grommet rings, pocket tops, tabs, or something similar, this can create more friction than our rings and the rod may be more prone to sliding. One solution is to mount the brackets at the end of the rod so that there is no room for the rod to slide. The duct tape method as mentioned above also works well in this situation, or we can add set screws to the bracket cups to lock the rods in place (+$5 per bracket). Please contact us at sales@highlandforge.com if you’d like to add bracket set screws to your order.